How to Install SPC (Stone Plastic Composite) Flooring
Stone Polymer Composite vinyl flooring, commonly known as SPC or hard vinyl flooring, is a flooring type popular among homeowners and business owners for various applications. This floor type is distinguished by a stable core made of natural limestone powder, polyvinyl chloride, and other stabilizers.
SPC vinyl is becoming one of the most popular floorings for many reasons. It gives vinyl plank flooring more stability, dent resistance, and structure. It is a higher-end alternative to luxury vinyl flooring that is fantastic for high-traffic areas. SPC vinyl can be installed over practically any existing hard surface subfloor. If you own a home, manage a property, or a business, this vinyl floor might be a fantastic alternative for your next project.
Working out the Amount of Flooring Required
To figure out how much SPC flooring to buy, you first need to measure the space. To determine surface coverage, multiply the room's length by its breadth (adding the area of any closets). To accommodate trimming, increase the overall surface area by 5-10%. It will help if you keep a few boards of your new flooring for replacement if any are damaged. You should use transition moldings if you install SPC in an area larger than 3600 sq. ft. and/or over a length greater than 60 linear feet.
Before installation, SPC must acclimatise to the area you will install it in. Do not store boxes on their sides; keep them flat and level. During acclimatisation, you should turn on the heating or air conditioning to maintain a temperature of 41 °F (5 °C) to 140 °F (60 °C). The flooring should be acclimated and installed in a temperature-controlled environment, with temperature fluctuations permitted only after the installation is complete.
Subfloors are the existing hard surfaces that your main floor is installed over and can vary from wooden floorboards or concrete. Clean, smooth, flat, solid (no movement), and dry subfloors are required. Installing boards over a slanted floor for drainage is not a good idea. We recommend you not install SPC in regions with a high risk of flooding.
Use a Portland cement-based patching compound to level any uneven spots greater than 3/16 inch (4.76mm) in a 10 foot (3.05m) radius. To avoid dangerous mold and mildew forming, ensure moisture does not gather on either side of the flooring.
Step 1) Once the flooring has been thoroughly cleaned and prepped, begin placing boards left to right for the first row. Place the first SPC plank so that the grooved edges are facing you. Place the board 6mm (1/4") from the left wall. Between the wall and the board, use spacers.
Step 2) Lay the second board in the first row end-to-end, interlocking with the first, and hit gently with a rubber mallet to securely lock them together. If properly laid, these should be the same height. Make sure they're both precisely aligned. Carry on in the same manner towards the right-hand wall.
NOTE: If both boards are not the same height or are not correctly secured together, remove the board(s) to check for dirt obscuring the lock and grooves. Attempting to press the boards together if the end joints are not correctly inline can permanently destroy the end joints.
Step 3) Make sure to measure the length required for the final board of the first row to allow for a 6mm (1/4") expansion gap between the plank and the right-hand wall.
Step 4) Cut the excess board facing upwards. Using a sharp utility knife and a ruler, cut forcefully many times on the same line. This will not sever the board, but it will sever it terribly. Place one hand near to the cut and press down hard. Then lift the other half of the board with the other hand. At the cut mark, the board should split naturally.
Step 5) Use the remains of the cut plank from the last piece of the first row to start the second row, as long as the piece is at least 30 cm (12"). Otherwise, start this row with a new plank, ensuring that the joints are at least 18 cm (7") apart. When possible, use the remaining chopped boards to begin succeeding rows at the ends of previous rows.
Step 6) Click the long sides of the new plank and the previous row's plank together, pressing the board securely against the short end of the last row's plank at a 30° angle. Drop the plank and gently tap it together with a rubber mallet to secure it. If correctly laid, these should be the same height. Make sure they are both precisely aligned.
Step 7) Using a string line, check for straightness after installing 2 or 3 rows. Unevenness in the starting wall could cause the planks not to run straight. To accommodate this, the first row may need to be re-trimmed.
Step 8) For the final row, lay an SPC plank right on top of the last finished row. Place a second board on top, with the tongue side of the plank hitting the final wall. Trace a line along the edge of this piece, marking the first board.
To acquire the appropriate board width, cut along this line. This cut board should be placed against the final wall. The last row should be no less than 5 cm (2") wide. After that, the spacers can be removed.
Step 9) When cutting holes for pipes, take the pipe's diameter as a guide and make a hole that is 12 mm (1/2") larger. Pipe holes: measure the pipe's diameter and drill a hole that is 1/2" (12mm) bigger. Cut a piece from the board and wrap it around the pipe. Then, in place, lay the sawed-off piece of board.
Step 10) It will be essential to slide the plank under the trim when fitting around the door frame. It's simple to execute by starting the row with the door trim on one side of the room and then sliding the plank into place once it's fastened. Depending on the direction, the row can be completed by putting the tongue into the groove. While the boards are flat, use a tapping block and drawbar to secure the joints together.
Step 11) Replace the molding once the installation is complete, leaving a slight gap between the molding and the SPC. Molding should be attached to the walls rather than the floor. Where SPC meets other kinds of flooring, T-molding can be used to hide exposed edges. Allow a small distance between surfaces and avoid pinching the SPC with molding.
Finishing the Job
Inspect your work before you leave, as it will cost you extra if you have to return later to make repairs. Replace the original baseboards with hardwood baseboards that match. As needed or recommended by your dealer or installer, install matching transitions. It is neither essential nor suggested to seal this floor after installation. Use felt pads on chair legs or furniture feet to protect your floor from scratches. Replace plastic rollers/casters with softer rubber wheels or castors if necessary. When moving big appliances like refrigerators, use at least two sheets of 1/4" Masonite or plywood to protect the flooring from scratching and denting (slide the appliance from one sheet to the next).
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